Is it possible to certify natural wine?

There have been many calls for a certified definition of natural wine. Aaron Ayscough thinks people are asking for the impossible.

Jacques Carroget, president of  Le Syndicat de  défense des vins  naturel
Jacques Carroget, president of Le Syndicat de défense des vins naturel

Efforts to certify natural wine saw progress in early March when French wine authorities officially recognised the label Vin Méthode Nature. The wine world was soon abuzz with commentary on whether certification for natural wine was a good thing, with everyone from Jancis Robinson to New York Times’ senior wine critic Eric Asimov offering thoughtful takes.

Omitted from the discussion so far, however, have been the mechanisms for enforcing natural wine certification. A closer look at them reveals the project’s practical impossibility — and the limits of verifying winemaking methodology. 

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