An analysis by Kerin O’Keefe
Italy’s appellation and quality control systems, the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) and the Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) are under intense scrutiny as both consumers and winemakers question their validity.
As the much hyped and still ongoing Brunello scandal demonstrates, the current DOCG system of checks and controls in both the vineyards and cellars has not guaranteed the authenticity of what is considered Tuscany’s most exclusive wine. The DOC classification, in effect since 1966, is also under fire, especially in Piedmont where starting 1 September 2008, all of the Langhe DOC wines will be affixed with a certification band around the capsule. From this time on, the Langhe DOCs will be as strictly regulated as the area’s DOCG wines that include Barolo and Barbaresco. Critics however say that controls in both designations are ineffectual and misleading.
"The DOCG is becoming more about politics than quality,” says Luciano Sandrone of the eponymous winery in Barolo. He is referring to the latest petitions from a group of winemakers in Piedmont that are asking the government to raise both Barbera d’Alba and Dolcetto d’Alba from DOC to the highly coveted DOCG status. "The DOCG no longer distinguishes between great and good wines.”
Roberto Conterno, of Giocomo Conterno estate, agrees. "Controlling all aspects of production is important, but the DOCG should be reserved only for Italy’s most exclusive bottlings, as was the denomination’s original intention when it was created in 1980,” he says. "Barbera d’Alba and Dolcetto d’Alba are both very good wines, but they are not Barolo or Barbaresco,”
For now, the local Consorzio agrees. "The proposal is already being contested by the majority of Barolo and Barbaresco producers,” says Claudio Salaris, director of the Consorzio. "Because all of the Langhe DOC wines now go through the same rigid monitoring as the DOCGs, many producers feel there is no need to change the status of these wines.”. He points out that though all the area’s DOCs will sport the quality control strip once reserved only for the DOCGs starting on 1 September 2008 both Nebbiolo d’Alba and Dolcetto d’Alba will begin wearing the bands on 1 January 2009. According to Salaris. the only differences now between the two denominations is that DOCGs cannot be bottled in five litre containers and must be bottled no later than 90 days after the lot in question has been certified.
"But neither the DOC or the DOCG guarantee anything,” declares Teobaldo Cappellano, one of Barolo’s most outspoken critics of the ailing appellations. "The system of controls and so-called traceability are technically impossible, you would need the world’s largest police force just for the vineyard and cellar inspections. On top of that, many of the original, more rigid regulations have been relaxed over the last ten years.” According to the iconic winemaker, the only way to guarantee a wine’s authenticity is to randomly inspect bottles already in the market. "With today’s technology, officials could easily confirm exactly what is inside the bottle, but there are too many interests at stake so this type of inspection is never done,” says Cappellano who adds that the producer’s reputation offers the only true guarantee of origin and authenticity.
