by Eleonora Scholes and Michèle Shah
The Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, one of the most powerful producer associations in Italy, chose an unconventional way to celebrate its 40th anniversary. A vertical tasting of 1967-1997 vintages was followed by a discussion
of the future development of the zone and then capped off with a satirical performance staged at a local theatre.
The Italian Minister for Agriculture Paolo de Castro was invited to participate in an open discussion on strategy of the consortium for the next 40 years. He stressed the need to be ready for the demands of the global market, something that Montalcino producers have thus far successfully achieved. Average annual production of the flagship Brunello di Montalcino wine currently stands at 6.5 million bottles, of which 62% is sold abroad. The total output of the zone is 15 million bottles, including Rosso di Montalcino, Moscadello di Montalcino and wines of Sant’Antimo. Winemaking has become the engine for a flourishing local economy, which is now focused on tourism, in turn demanding new strategies and services in the region.
A new comedy written by a local producer was staged later in the day. "Barbatelle - or Una di Vino Commedia” is a satirical play that features grape varieties as main characters. The plot revolves around Duke Cabernet Sauvignon, Head of The Holy Bordelaise Empire with ambitious plans to dominate the world, and a group of Italian varieties, which form an alliance to fight against the Duke. Author Giancarlo Cignozzi, who is also the owner of the Il Paradiso di Frassina estate in Montalcino, stated that the main messages of the play touch upon the return to authenticity of local grapes, biodiversity and ongoing discussion concerning the standardization of wines.
