by Ned Goodwin
The Japanese penchant for convenient life-style-oriented packaging, such as cans and tetrapaks, seems to indicate that a land obsessed with brands and aesthetics is not as sensitive to alternative packaging as first thought. Many sommeliers
cite the acceptance of screwcap as a breakthrough. While some restaurants refuse to use screwcapped wines, it is clear that this bias is more a reflection of a staid status-quo and unwillingness to change, than it is of customer rejection. In contrast, those restaurants that have embraced screwcaps, such as SALT in the Shin-Marunouchi development, report no service issues at all.
In turn the Australian canned wine, Barokes, has succeeded with real market penetration in Japan. Sold mainly in department stores, railway stations and airport shops, Barokes is designed for people on the move. The 250 ml format appeals to many Japanese who are unable to drink a full bottle. One can retails for 398 yen. Since October `05, still red and white, and sparkling red, rose and white have been available.
The success with alternate packaging types has also proven the catalyst for the introduction of Boisset`s Tetrapak, French Rabbit. Rabbit has been available in Japan since March 1. Kokubu, the distributor, is pushing the angle of sustainable farming (the fruit is sourced from organic vineyards in the Languedoc) in line with the Japanese embrace of the loosely used term, "natural wine". Unsurprisingly, in a land that still prizes triple-wrapped plastic containers for a few tomatos, the carbon-footprint and recyclable message has not been voiced. Rabbit retails for 800 yen.
