Small isn’t always better

Small, family owned wineries are always assumed to make artisanal, sustainable wines. Felicity Carter asks if it’s true.

Photo by Hannah Busing on Unsplash
Photo by Hannah Busing on Unsplash

Do a quick search of online sellers who specialize in artisanal wines, and one of the promises they make is a commitment to work with “small, family-owned wineries”. There is an implicit assumption that smallholders are more ethical, more craft-oriented and better for the environment than their big counterparts. 

This is a fundamental misunderstanding of how the wine market functions.

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