Bordeaux's grape revolution

Climate change is causing profound changes - also and especially in the world of wine. Sooner or later, heat and drought will likely affect every region, no matter how prestigious it may be. In Bordeaux, the topic has long been on everyone's lips. One solution: adapt the variety mix.

James Lawrence has asked around in Bordeaux.

Château Lagrange is committed to Cabernet Sauvignon
Château Lagrange is committed to Cabernet Sauvignon

As Bordeaux celebrates another excellent vintage, its winegrowers are busy preparing for a viticultural revolution. “People used to harvest in raincoats – now they need t-shirts and sun hats. The last 15 years have seen global warming transform our viticulture,” said Jean-Guillaume Prats, Chateau Lafite's president and CEO. 

Prats, like many of the region's influential stakeholders, is steering Bordeaux in a new direction. He is acutely aware that a changing climate necessitates a fresh approach.

The remodelling of vineyards across Bordeaux's Left and Right Bank has become the topic du jour. Every sector of the industry – from First Growth to generic – is talking about using grape varieties in the fight against global warming. However, thus far, only the producers of Bordeaux/Bordeaux Supérieur AOC wines have been given legal permission to include new varieties in their blends.

In January 2021, the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) gave final approval to the planting of four new red and two new white grape varieties in Bordeaux. After over a decade of research undertaken by a division of France’s Ministry of Agriculture, a team of scientists and viticulturists had selected varieties based primarily on their resilience to heat and drought. These included Marselan and Portugal's Touriga Nacional, while the white grapes were limited to Alvarinho and Liliorila. 

If Bordeaux is set to experience hot and dry vintages with increasing regularity, then these new varieties will be far easier to grow.
 

New varieties, strict rules

Wineries may start planting this year, although the new framework places strict limits on their freedom to experiment. The producers of Bordeaux/Bordeaux Supérieur wines cannot plant more than five percent of the total vineyard area to the new varieties. In addition, these varieties cannot account for more than ten percent of the final blend. 

"The idea is to choose the options of the future rather than having to face them without preparation," said Florian Reyne, a senior member of the Bordeaux/Bordeaux Supérieur council. "We studied carefully their adaptation to our geographical areas, especially in relation to climate change. We have also relied on the advice of professionals in plant material selection. These grape varieties will be introduced gradually."

Meanwhile, Bordeaux's firmament of classified and quality-focused estates are also adapting their strategy to a changing world. Without any official sanction to plant new varieties, certain winemakers are looking to rebalance their vineyards.The debates surrounding global warming are becoming a common occurrence. During an online seminar hosted in March by a group of owners and consultants, a possible future for the region was mapped out. 

Agronomist David Pernet of the consultancy business Sovivins, is just one expert calling for a reassessment of grape plantings in Bordeaux. “Cabernet Franc is a late ripening variety, so it is good for the future of Bordeaux when planted on clay and limestone,” said Pernet.

Eloi Jacob, managing director of Château Fourcas Hosten in Listrac, agreed. “We need to adapt our varieties to prepare for the future and plant more Cabernet Franc as it’s a late ripening variety,” he said. “Merlot can suffer from prolonged heat and drought.”

 


Source: Conseil Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux

 

Stephanie Barousse, deputy CEO of Chateau de la Dauphine, added that while she loved the generosity of ripe Merlot, she was concerned about rising alcohol levels. “Over the past few vintages, we've been seeing wines with 15% alcohol,” said Barousse. “Merlot is a wonderful variety, but it's tendency to ripen early can be a problem in hotter years. I don't want my alcohol levels to become unbalanced, so we're going to use more Cabernet Franc in upcoming vintages, as it ripens later.”

Historically, Cabernet Franc has played a supporting, rather than defining, role in the blends of St-Émilion, Fronsac and Pomerol. There are notable exceptions: Cheval Blanc and Château Jean Faure usually include over 40 percent Cabernet Franc in their blends, but few properties in the Right Bank emulate this practice. Although Cabernet Franc buds and ripens before Cabernet Sauvignon, making it useful in cooler vintages, it has traditionally been more difficult to cultivate than Merlot. That variety has long been the most important in Right Bank wines. In the Left Bank, Cabernet Franc has traditionally been used with some caution. “Cabernet Franc's unpopularity in much of the Medoc is due to many factors, notably its susceptibility to disease and rot,” observes Bordeaux expert Stephen Brook.

In contrast, plantings of Merlot have been increasing since 2000 in appellations like St Estèphe, as growers sought the approachability and attractive fruit profile of this perennially popular grape. Ripening earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot has traditionally been used to produce softer wine.
 

Cabernet Franc instead of Merlot

Yet climate change has called its future in both the Medoc and Right Bank into question. In hot, dry vintages like 2018, Merlot can really suffer. Winegrowers face the dual challenges of keeping potential alcohol at desirable levels and avoiding harsh tannins that can result from prolonged periods of hydric stress. But is replacing more Merlot with Cabernet Franc really the best solution?

“Cabernet Franc ripens one week to 10 days later than Merlot – it performs better on limestone resistant rootstocks. So, Cabernet Franc is a good choice to replace Merlot on limestone soils,” said Cornelis van Leeuwen, a viticultural professor based in Bordeaux.

Several leading estates are adopting this practice. “We’ve had a run of excellent vintages in Bordeaux, but this doesn’t mean we are not extraordinarily wary,” said Saskia de Rothschild, chairman of Domaines Barons de Rothschild. “This is especially the case on the Right Bank for L’Evangile, where Merlot is the main varietal and has a great sensitivity to heat. This means we are planning to plant more Cabernet Franc and even Cabernet Sauvignon to make sure we build a balanced blend for our future vintages. It’s a long-term guessing game as these planting decisions will take full effect in a decade’s time, so let’s hope they are the right ones.”

Chateau Angelus’ MD Stephanie de Bouard added that “Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon will certainly play a significant role in the blends in the context of global warming, but what matters most are the soils they will be planted into.”


At Château Croix de Labrie, the focus is on viticultural practices to fight climate change

 

Of course, much depends on the terroir and individual priorities of the winemaker in question. While there is a broad consensus that Merlot is not well-adapted to cope with rising temperatures and drought, not everyone wishes to increase the amount of Cabernet Franc in their vineyard.

“I am sure that there will be less and less Merlot and more Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot in the Medoc blends, which is always much better for the wine,” said Matthieu Bordes, Directeur Général at Chateau Lagrange. He continued: “It is true that Merlot struggles to maintain its harmony between freshness and a high degree of alcohol in hot years like 2018. So, in that sense, Cabernet Franc could be a good alternative in this warming climate.“Nevertheless at Lagrange, Cabernet Franc is not our priority, as we have never had this grape over the last 36 years. We much prefer Cabernet Sauvignon on our gravelly soil – it ripens perfectly every year and gives the wine much more density without losing the necessary elegance.”
 

Changes in the vineyards

In a region as diverse and complex as Bordeaux, there will always be room for different opinions and contrasting approaches. Château Croix de Labrie is a leading property in St-Émilion. Its owner Pierre Courdurié believes that changing viticultural practices is the key to maintaining freshness and balance in the region's wines, rather than replanting its vineyards. “Everyone in Bordeaux can see climate change, but we have to adapt first in the vineyard,” he said. “For example: we can adapt how we manage our canopies, ensuring proper shading and adapting other specifications in the vineyards before we resort to planting other grape varieties.”

Courdurié does not wish to downplay the challenges of growing grapes in a warming climate. Yet he argues that too much emphasis is placed on rising temperatures, and that the most pernicious consequences lie elsewhere. “Global warming is getting more problematic for all of us, but the biggest dangers are from hailstorms and the impact of frost. With growing seasons beginning earlier and earlier, frost is a real worry.”

The devastation caused by the onset of severe frost across Bordeaux's vineyards in April this year suggests that Courdurié is correct. According to the CIVB, Bordeaux’s regional body, “Between 30-50 percent of the vineyards in Bordeaux have been affected by the frost, with the level of damage varying from vineyard to vineyard”.

Contemporary Bordeaux faces a myriad of challenges. Quite apart from the Covid-19 pandemic, its industry must respond to the vagaries of an increasingly capricious climate. Change and uncertainty are everywhere. But the region is well-prepared to meet these difficulties head on. Ultimately, as elsewhere, the winners in the Medoc and St-Émilion will be the producers who are willing to adapt and evolve. There is little room for intransigence in 21st century Bordeaux.

James Lawrence

 

 

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