More exciting than ever – the new 2019 edition of the Rioja TOP 100 showcases the enormous creativity of the Rioja district.
Held for the fifth time on the premises of the Meininger Verlag publishing house, this major Rioja tasting once again confirms the high calibre of Spain’s leading winegrowing area. As well as the anticipated presence of high-quality wines in the Reserva and Gran Reserva categories, wines with generic labels were also rated as outstanding. And it wasn’t only the reds that triumphed: a considerable number of white wines impressed the tasters too.
Stylistic variation proves popular
The fact that the majority of the top ratings went to Reserva, Gran Reserva and Genérico wines is hardly surprising. The striking feature was the variety of different styles, which was much appreciated by the tasters. Apart from some single-variety Premium Garnachas of remarkable quality, traditional Gran Reservas competed alongside elegant terroir wines and classic Reservas, which glittered with polished accessibility. Virtually unknown Bodegas have slipped seamlessly into the ranks of big name producers, which have dominated the region for decades. Crianzas and Reservas, in particular, highlighted one of the great strengths of the Rioja region, namely its much-cited and consistently excellent value for money. Great acclaim went to the range of Rioja Blanco wines presented at the tasting, which offered a fine cross-section of the trend for white wine that is currently sweeping through Rioja.
The rise of white Rioja continues
One thing is certain: white wine is becoming an increasingly important topic for many suppliers in Rioja. For some time, many winemakers from this region have been working on options for creating truly first-class white wines, and this trend is growing. The range of wines on offer has multiplied and a wealth of new brands have entered the arena, especially in the premium segment. The fact that it is possible to produce stand-alone, high-quality white wines has been demonstrated by a number of traditional wineries in the past. Their longmatured top white wines are some of the most coveted rarities in the country and now serve as a benchmark for many producers with ambitions in this field. In particular, the Bodegas of the last two generations have fine-tuned their white wines and can now offer their own high-quality, standalone white Riojas. This is exemplified by the outstanding Luis Cañas Barrica, which comes from a winery north of the river known for its wonderfully juicy Tempranillos. The potential for quality whites thus seems to exist across the whole Rioja winegrowing area.
The producer Rioja Vega with its Tempranillo Blanco from the warmer terroirs south-east of Logroño stood out, as did the now highly regarded white wines of Gómez Cruzado from the north-western tip of the Rioja Alta. The terroir selection of Montes Obarenes demonstrates how impressive the versatility of a premium white based on old Viura vineyards can be.
The palette of quality whites also highlighted some interesting new ventures. For example, the father and son team of the Murúa family have breathed new life into their former top brand, Conde de los Andes, which now cuts a fine figure. For his part, old master Miguel Merino, who together with Miguel Jr. keeps setting the quality bar of the family business even higher, introduced for the first time his own white wine made from vineyards around the famous winemaking village of Briones. Even if the wines did not please all the tasters, the flagship Viura from Conde los Andes and the Miguel Merino Blanco were certainly the wines that sparked the most discussion at the tasting and, together with other new additions, were the main focus of the morning’s event.
An underestimated quality level: Crianza Although wines of the Crianza quality level are certainly much prized by Rioja connoisseurs, many Spanish wine buffs tend to look down upon this category. It seems the pulling power of the terms Reserva and Gran Reserva is just too strong. Yet the Crianza is more than just the calling card of traditional businesses. For many producers, the quality of their Crianza is an essential Rioja offers the consumer everything from young whites to mature reds. Craftsmanship and attention to detail is an indispensable part of working in Rioja 39 indicator of how good their entire portfolio is likely to be. Its image as an entry-level wine is therefore far from fair. Mediumsized cellars, in particular, invest a great deal of time and effort in the creation of their Crianza and have, particularly over the past decade, raised the category to a notable level. If you look at the Crianza wines that the tasters had the good fortune to try this year, it is striking to see how varied the style of this category has become. Even if the supposed grip of the ‘Reserva’ soubriquet may attract the attention of many Spanish wine aficionados, it is clear that the Crianzas represent a genuine cornucopia of attractive Rioja wines at a moderate price level. Evocative brands such as Berzal, La Montesa, Tobia and Valserrano are known for their craftsmanship and therefore stand for modernity rather than a conservative, Spanish wine experience. It is not uncommon for producers with a more modern approach to refrain from making a Gran Reserva and instead to use their best harvest for a Crianza, Reserva or Generico top wine label. Superstar Baigorri, for example, sees his Crianza as a thoroughly sophisticated wine and has for years triumphed around the world with his eponymous Tempranillo creation for this quality level.
Perhaps at this point it is time to clear up the preconception that Crianzas should be drunk as soon as possible after their release. The prominent representative of the Unión de Cosecheros de Labastida was very clear on this point in 2015. The quality level Crianza, which simply translates as “growth” in English, stands primarily for fruit, reclaimed wood, balance and quaffing pleasure. Ideally, and in principle, it refers to a contemporary style of wine, far from the traditional oaky flavour of red Riojas that have been aged over several years. In addition, the region offers a vast range of these wines. Nowhere else in Spain has such a broad spectrum of reputable Crianzas, and no other growing region offers a wider variety of styles under the Crianza back label than the super-appellation in the upper reaches of the Ebro.
Wines up to €20.00 - a look at Rioja’s winemaking skills
The list in this category reads like an expert guide to the DOCa Rioja and combines competence and terroir knowledge with trendsetting and tradition in equal measure. Simply, the selection of Gran Reservas with their impressive interpretative scope showcases one of the greatest strengths of the Rioja region. At the top of the class, the selection ranges from great classics (Bordón) and the timeless style of an Izabre from Bodegas Larchago (Familia Chávarri) to a rather more rigid interpretation of the premium class offered by a Viña Muriel or Ondarre Gran Reserva. On a par, but with an entirely different focus, are the terroir artists under the generic back label. Making a glittering debut, the varietal Garnacha of Petra de Valpiedra tops the list, followed by the new class of the outstanding Cerro las Cuevas, the spicy mineral tang of Finca La Reñana from Luis Alegre, and another strong Garnacha from the hitherto unknown label La Mateo from Rioja Oriental in the east of the appellation. The final entries in this category come from insiders such as Exopto and Oinoz - the latter an important new addition for the north bank, since it represents the involvement of a prominent wine entrepreneur from Castile, who succumbed a few years ago to the temptation of the fantastic locations around San Vicente de la Sonsierra.
Naturally, we cannot fail to mention at this point the big names from the region, which make up both the structure and the essence of Rioja’s diversity: Carlos Serres, Montecillo and Señorío de Peciña, to name but a few, who are part of a wine aristocracy which are appreciated by experienced Rioja connoisseurs and new fans alike as guarantees of continuity and experience.
High quality and unique – wines over €20.00
Combined in a compact block, the superpremium wines finally form a rich and varied exceptional category. Big names are, naturally, mandatory, but a few renowned players have managed to achieve success in the final selection for the Rioja Top 100. La Rioja Alta, the great classic from the famous Station district in Haro, has two wines on the list, but the traditional giants of Bodegas Riojanas and CVNE are also, as expected, proud to be included. Then there is the double glory of two wines from Loli Casado, one of the rising stars from the Rioja Alavesa, and Bodegas Larchago (Familia Chávarri), also representing the north bank, which has long been famous for the characteristic fruitybalsamic character of its Tempranillo wines. Geographically exactly opposite on the south side of the Ebro there are Bodegas such as Valdelana, which represent a more robust style. It is immediately apparent that the over-€20.00 category is not just dominated by the significance of great historical figures, but – honour where honour is due – also by the cooperatives, who have a role to play here. Culto, the flagship of the largest cooperative in the Rioja region, has managed to leap onto the leaderboard.
Once again this tasting, organised by the wine authorities in Logroño in collaboration with the Meininger Verlag publishing house, serves as a comprehensive exhibition of the Rioja and as a barometer of trends for Spain’s internationally best-known quality wine appellation.
Blancos and Rosados €3.50 to €10.00
922015 Conde de los Andes Blanco Bodegas Ollauri Plenty of spice, dried fruit, orange peel, a touch of exoticism, maturity; very complex, fresh and balanced. 912018 Luis Cañas Blanco Barrica Bodegas Luis Cañas Delicate reduction, yeast dough, light caramel, salted poporn, citrus zest, pear chutney; firm salty grip, nice minerality. 902017 La Mateo Tempranillo Blanco Bodegas D. Mateos Exotic fruit, light citrus notes, honey, then wood; balanced, dense and with a lot of potential. 892018 Tuercebotas White Tempranillo Fine spices, some shortbread, almond, subtle floral; acidic and gentle, but very good. 892018 Tarón Blanco Fermentado en Barrica Bodegas Tarón Lots of new wood, but skilfully used, almond, honey cornflakes; Beautifully acidic, easy to handle and lasting. 892017 Gómez Cruzado Blanco Bodegas y Viñedos de Gómez Cruzado Quite reserved, but an interesting scent with herbal/flower notes and spices from the yeast; full-bodied and complex. |
882018 Campillo Blanco Fermentado en Barrica Bodegas Campillo Modern type with lots of new wood, also exotic notes of guava, pear, nougat; tight with a firm grip. 882017 Miguel Merino Blanco Bodega Miguel Merino Independent, exciting style with dried fruit and slight exoticism, some wax; elegant, firm and with attractive tartness. 882017 Gran Bohedal Blanco Bodegas Heredad Baños Bezares Delicate herbal spiciness, nut and citrus flavors; expressive and elegant on the palate, very polished. 882017 Altos R Pigeage Blanco Altos de Rioja Bodegueros y Viticultores Subtle floral aromas; soft and delicate on the palate; complex and with potential. 882016 Rioja Vega Tempranillo Blanco Reserva Rioja Vega Dried fruits, banana and clean wood; quite ripe; medium length, great structure. |
Crianzas €4.50 to €20.0
942015 Castillo La Bastida Crianza Unión de Cosecheros de Labastida Very harmonious Crianza with plenty of ripe, fruit flavors; substantially concentrated, with length and balance. 932015 Luis Cañas Crianza Bodegas Luis Cañas Elegant and fresh on the nose, with crisp forest fruit on the palate along with vital acidity and a solid construction. 922016 Rioja Bordón# Bodegas Franco-Españolas Super exciting and idiosyncratic: open forest fruit, attractive wildness (leather, slightly volatile acidity); super juicy-acid fresh; elegant. 922016 Finca San Martín Torre de Oña Fine fruitiness, with chocolate and liquorice; elegant on the palate; tightly woven and with potential. 922016 Magister Bibendi Garnacha Crianza Serrano Arriezu, Andres Miguel y José Ramón – Navarrsotillo Very complex Garnacha: some wildness, leather, herbs, cigar box, dried plum; very balanced, great tannin. 912016 5 Zintzo Wine Crianza Bodegas Zintzo Substantial type with fine red fruit, subtle spicy notes; on the palate characterized by balance, great tannin. 902016 Fincas de Azabache Crianza Garnacha Viñedos de Aleanueva Very balanced and timeless fragrance, forest fruit, some spicy tobacco; also classic on the A line up of Rioja wines palate, very tannic. 902016 La Montesa Bodegas Palacios Remondo Plenty of Garnacha typicity with floral, earthy spiciness and sour cherry. Plenty of fruit and spice on the palate. 902016 Obalo Crianza Bodegas Obalo Consistent interplay of fine fruit and subtle animalistic spice; full-bodied and with potential. 902015 Oinoz Crianza Bodegas y Viñedos Carlos Moro Intensive fruitiness, subtle spiciness; tight and still with a firm tannin frame. 892016 Rioja Vega Edición Limitada Crianza Rioja Vega Greenish, almost spicy seasoning, light red fruit, cranberry, cinnamon; clear, very skilled use of wood, firm grip. |
892016 Tío Martín Crianza Bodegas D. Mateos Very harmonious combination of berry fruit and spice; on the palate an integration of fruitiness and structure. 892016 Larchago Crianza Bodegas Larchago (Familia Chávarri) Pronounced maturity. Lots of dried forest fruit on the palate along with excellent tannins. 892015 Valserrano Crianza Viñedos y Bodegas de la Marquesa Singular wine offering rich, dark fruit. An open palate full of sweet fruit. 882016 Castroviejo Crianza Bodegas Pastor Diaz Attractive fruit, pepper, juniper and mint; taut and very youthful. 882016 Ramón Bilbao Crianza Ramón Bilbao Lots of forest fruit, with intensive woody notes; the palate is velvety and balanced. 882016 Gran Bohedal Crianza Bodegas Heredad Baños Bezares Red berry, also chocolate and coffee, black cherry; slightly creamy; elegant structure on the palate. 882016 Jaun de Alzate Crianza Bodegas Loli Casado A smoky-spicy Crianza with ripe red fruit; clear spiciness on the palate as well, plus concise acidity. 882016 Marqués de Vitoria Crianza Bodegas Marqués de Vitoria On the fruit/driven side. Lots of light, lovely sweet fruit. 882016 Dominio de Berzal Crianza Dominio de Berzal Well/made crianza that combines maturity and freshness; powerful, full-bodied with firm tannins. 882016 Baigorri Tempranillo Crianza Bodegas Baigorri Spicy, earthy scents combined with sour fruits. Plenty of tension. 882016 Tobia Bodegas Tobia Cool, peppery scents. Lots of licorice and black fruits. Medium length. |
Reservas, Gran Reservas and Genéricos €6.50
942016 Petra de Valpiedra Finca Valpiedra Imposing Garnacha with notes of cassis and blooms, along with spice from the new wood. 932017 Cerro las Cuevas Bodegas y Viñedos de Gómez Cruzado Pleasantly discreet use of wood, with fresh fruit and floral notes. An elegant palate. 932014 Baigorri de Garage Bodegas Baigorri Classic rustic notes of leather and earth, intermingled with wild berries. Very harmonious and integrated palate. 932010 Muriel Viñas Viejas Gran Reserva Muriel Wines Earthy, spicy fruit along with petrichor. Plenty of saline depth and complexity. 932010 Ondarre Gran Reserva Bodegas Ondarre Ripe fruit mingled with aromas of dried fruits and grilled meats. A lot of minerality on the palate. 932006 Izabre Gran Reserva Bodegas Larchago (Familia Chávarri) Salami, leather and dates, bound together by elegant 922015 Conde de los Andes Tinto Bodegas Ollauri Tobacco spiciness and other subtle vegetal greenish notes. Granular tannins. 922014 Luis Alegre Finca la Reñana Reserva Bodegas Luis Alegre Prolonged spiciness, with leather, licorice and wild berries. A juicy, powerful palate. 922012 Finca Valpiedra Reserva Finca Valpiedra Beautiful, complex perfume with smoky peppery notes and rustic red fruit. Fruit sweetness and good acidity. Traditional. 922011 Cerro Añón Gran Reserva Bodegas Olarra A rich, ripe Gran Reserva with aging potential. Plenty of nougat and Bounty characters, a great middle palate and long length. 922009 Señorío de P. Peciña Bodegas Hermanos Peciña A very traditional wine, with plenty of leather and spice notes. Needs lots of air. 922009 Bordón Gran Reserva Bodegas Franco-Españolas Lots of wild herbs and red berry fruit aromas. Juicy palate. 912016 La Mateo Bodegas D. Mateos Exciting spiciness: cocoa, fennel salami, dark cherry fruit, coupled with fine grained tannins. 902016 Exopto Rug Vino Cherry and forest fruit compote. Young, firm tannins and juicy finish. 912014 Oinoz by Claude Gros Bodegas y Viñedos Carlos Moro Raspberry and blueberry notes. Elegant mouthfeel. Harmonious. 912012 Baron de Ley Gran Reserva Bodegas Barón de Ley Fine, classic Gran Reserva with forest fruit and earthy spiciness; elegant, slender and with excellent acidity. 912012 Montecillo Reserva Bodegas Montecillo Neoclassic Reserve with a meaty-smoky fragrance and skilled use of wood. 912012 Luis Cañas Selección de la Familia Reserva Bodegas Luis Cañas Very woody with touches of coconut. Forest fruit, rich tannins. Edgy, distinctive wine. 912012 Merus.4 Tempranillo Bodegas Heredad de Baroja Forest soil, berries and tobacco. Spicy finish. 912011 David Moreno Reserva Bodegas David Moreno Balanced, ripe and fragrant scents of plum and berries. The elegant palate show dynamic acidity. 912011 Viña Albina Bodegas Riojanas Fine forest fruit with earth and tobacco. Fine, grainy finish. 912011 Carlos Serres Bodegas Carlos Serres Very classic Roioja. A lovely combination of fruit, wood and mineral notes, which come together in a powerful finale. 912011 Onomástica Tinto Bodegas Carlos Serres An ambitious, powerful wine that has lots of potential still. |
912009 Reserva Ruiz de Viñaspre Bodegas Ruiz de Viñaspre Beautiful style of Reserva with leatherand tobacco notes. Fine spicy acids. 902016 Finca de los Arandinos El Conjuro Finca de los Arandinos Cool, elegant style with menthol, juniper, tobacco and sour cherry. 902014 Coto de Imaz Reserva El Coto de Rioja Discernible wood notes, but very pleasant, with penty of dark fruit, spice and cocoa. 902014 Valdelacierva Reserva Do5 Hispanobodegas Berry fruit, cherry and caramel. A powerful wine, with the acidity to give it freshness. 902014 Clos Montebuena Reserva Unión de Cosecheros de Labastida Beautifully ripe and fruity, with vegetal notes. Juicy and persistent on the palate. 902009 RV Ruiz de Viñaspre Vendimia Seleccionada Bodegas Ruiz de Viñaspre A successful mix of modern and classic Rioja. Substantial, powerful and long. 892017 Dominio de Berzal Graciano Dominio de Berzal Greenish-fresh this is a typical Graciano. Greenish-fresh this is a typical Graciano. Great acidity and youthfulness. 892016 Parcela nº5 de Bodegas Luis Alegre Bodegas Luis Alegre Juicy fruit of the forest with some herbal notes. Body, balance and further potential. 892015 Muga Reserva Bodegas Muga Lovely modern example with eucalyptus and berry notes; good use of wood; elegant. 892014 Conde de la Salceda Reserva Viña Salceda Pronounced maturity; truffles;Christmas spice; cigars. Accessible and ripe palate. 892014 Primicia Reserva Bodegas Primicia Consistently fresh and elegant with spicy acidity. 892012 Carlos Serres Reserva Bodegas Carlos Serres Classic style. Some leather, red fruits, pepper. Plenty of potential. 892012 Valserrano Gran Reserva Viñedos y Bodegas de la Marquesa Great representative of the style. Notes of leather and earth, plus dried red fruit. Spicy. 892009 Amaren Reserva Especial Bodegas Luis Cañas Etheral herbal aromas of tobacco, pine, lovage. Tannins are firm and concentrated. 882016 Dominio de Berzal 7 Varietales Dominio de Berzal Harmonious melding of red berry fruit and spicy oak, with a good balance on the palate. 882016 Colección Vivanco 4 Varietales Bodegas Vivanco Fresh and lively with juicy fruit and springy acidity. 882015 Pagos de Labarca Aex Bodegas Covila Complex aromas with diverse spice notes. Velvety and well balanced. 882015 Cerro Añón Reserva Bodegas Olarra Nuts and almonds discernible through the berry aromas and flavours. Deft use of oak. 882015 Oscar Tobia Reserva Bodegas Tobia Ripe, jammy fruit with slight oxidation. 882014 Barón de Ley Reserva Bodegas Barón de Ley Deep black fruit, particularly blackberry. Dense without heaviness. Balanced. 882014 Altos R Reserva Altos de Rioja Bodegueros y Viticultores Somewhat leathery/waxy with good maturity. A straightforward wine. 882013 Señorío de P. Peciña Reserva Bodegas Hermanos Peciña Traditional style of wine. Developed colour. Pronounced spiciness. Distinctive acidity. 882011 Hacienda El Ternero Reserva Viñedos del Ternero Woody overtones. Subtle earthy spiciness. Full bodied. 882010 Montecillo Gran Reserva Bodegas Montecillo Aromas of the forest floor. Elegantly reserved fruit. Balanced, slightly salty. At its drinking peak. |
Reservas, Gran Reservas and Genéricos over €20.00
941998 Monte Real Gran Reserva Edición Limitada Bodegas Riojanas Impressive and classic smoky/tobacco aromas with dried berry fruits, candied citrus zest and fine oxidation. Fresh and lively. 922018 Rioja Vega Blanco Colección Tempranillos Rioja Vega Fine, earthy/herbal spice notes with cider and fresh tobacco. Tense and acid fresh, with plenty of juice and length. 922016 La Mateo Garnacha Cepas Bodegas D. Mateos Cool and reserved, with elegant notes of black cherry, pimento and earth. Firm, young, fresh. 922012 Imperial Gran Reserva CVNE – Compañía Vinícola Del Norte De España Timeless and classic with blackberries and red forest fruits. Complex with soft tannins and lively acidity. 922010 Jaun de Alzate Gran Reserva Bodegas Loli Casado Ripe fruits with peppery spice and cigar box. Perfect drinking now, but still plenty of potential. 922000 Chavarri Bodegas Larchago (Familia Chávarri) Classic aromas of tobacco, coffee and spiced plums. Very drinkable. 912015 Montes Obarenes Bodega y Viñedos de Gómez Cruzado Dehydrated apricot with beautiful spiciness and hints of earth. A substantial wine that manages to be elegant and structured. |
912010 Centvm Vitis Bodegas Valdelana Great intensity in the nose. Cassis, tar, licorice and even some honey. Depth on the palate. 902016 Polus Tempranillo Bodegas Loli Casado Harmonious throughout, from the cool climate berry fruit on the nose through to the balanced palate. 902016 Colección Vivanco Bodegas Vivanco There is definitely some brett on the nose, but also an appealing herbal fragrance. A substantial wine. 902012 Viña Arana Gran Reserva La Rioja Alta It needs some air, and then it shows floral spiciness, coconut and chocolate. Attractive bite and length. 902011 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva El Coto de Rioja Super traditional; fleshy, herbal and with good acidity. 892016 Culto Viñedos Aldeanueva Energetic fragrances of red apple, cranberry and pepper. Firm on the palate. Youthful and fresh. 892014 Perfume de Sonsierra Bodegas Sonsierra Wood-inflected fruit. Coffee, chocolate, spicy. Juicy but elegant. 892014 Martelo Reserva Torre de Oña Contemporary in outlook, with cherry fruit and touches of herbal earth. Balanced. |
