Japan’s most notable sommeliers

The culture of ‘omakase’, or recommendations, means Japanese sommeliers are a force to be reckoned with. Roddy Ropner explains.

sommeliers
sommeliers

While Japan is renowned for the quality of its restaurants, it is less well-known as the home of some of the most sophisticated wine lists and talented sommeliers in the world. In a country where wine culture is not yet fully established, sommeliers play a crucial role in promoting wine. By volume, more than a third of wine is sold through the on-trade, which equates to nearly two thirds of sales by value. Diners rely heavily upon the Japan Sommelier Association’s 7,000-plus professional members because the custom of ‘omakase’ – asking the chef for recommendations, which is common when ordering in Japanese restaurants – extends to wine.

Certain trends and themes are evident at leading restaurants, where fixed menu courses are now common and wine pairing courses are standard. Strong demand for sparkling wines, especially Champagne, is conspicuous. Burgundy continues to be highly popular, while demand for Bordeaux declines, reflecting a broader trend for lighter styles of cuisine and wines. Natural wine is firmly established and offered by many restaurants, including more traditional establishments. Many chefs are embracing Japanese culinary concepts and not simply copying foreign ideas, as there is justifiable pride in Japanese ingredients; the inclusion of Japanese wine and sake reflects this. 

French restaurants

Housed in its own building in Tokyo, The Crescent celebrates its 60th anniversary in 2018. The cuisine is traditional but without heavy sauces. Experienced head sommelier Masaharu Hatayama joined in 2000 and oversees a list that is principally French with wines that are ‘nomigoro’ or ready for drinking. There is a preponderance of classics from Burgundy and Bordeaux among the nearly 350 wines listed, including mature Rousseaux and Domaine de la Romaneé-Conti wines. The Rhône, Alsace, and Loire are also included. A smaller international selection is available by the glass and for pairing, with a separate list for Champagnes with Jacques Selosse, Ulysse Collin and Vouette et Sorbée all in demand from guests. Diners include establishment figures and businessmen as well as private clients.

L’Osier in Ginza, another high-end French restaurant, was founded in 1973. After renovation it reopened in 2013 and the new chef is Olivier Chaignon. Presentation is modern but flavours are traditional.

Head sommelier Toshifumi Nakamoto has worked at L’Osier for almost 20 years. The list includes 300 wines but there are also 10,000 bottles in the cellar. While New World names such as Ramey, Littorai and Leeuwin are listed at the top of each page, bringing them to the attention of diners, the majority of the list is French. Nakamoto notes Bordeaux has declined in popularity since the price rises of 2005. Burgundy, being terroir-focused and scarce, on the other hand, appeals to knowledgeable connoisseurs. Older customers are drinking less but still want high quality so a Coravin pour is used to serve 50ml and 100ml measures. 

Apicius in the Yurakucho district of Tokyo is another upscale French restaurant and, as such, has a high percentage of guests coming for business entertainment. Cuisine is traditional and there is still an à la carte menu. Head sommelier Hiroyuki Seino has worked there for 12 years and the list has a French bias and includes a strong selection from the Rhône, besides Burgundy and Bordeaux. There is now a polarisation in demand with both top end and less expensive wines selling well, while the mid-range is slower moving. Sales of Champagne are booming; 2,000 bottles were sold in 2017, a figure easily ahead of 2016 sales. 

L’Effervescence is a modern French restaurant with an extensive international list complementing Champagne and Burgundy. There is also a strong showing from Japan. Head sommelier Akio Matsumoto is representative of a new generation of sommeliers and has created a list that avoids distinctions between low-intervention and traditional wines. The pairing menu changes regularly but recently included Nicolas Joly Coulée de Serrant, Churton’s Petit Manseng, and the Private Reserve from cult Japanese producer Beau Paysage. This style of inclusive, international wine list represents one trend for modern restaurants in Japan. 

Italian restaurants

There are more than 8,000 Italian restaurants in Japan. FARO in Ginza recently reopened with a new chef, Kotaro Noda, who has worked in Italy for 20 years. The cuisine is innovative with an Italian influence but uses local seasonal ingredients, while the wine list provides continuity with the past. Head sommelier Yasushi Honda, who joined in 2001, has included many benchmark Italian estates with Tuscany, and in particular elegant Montalcinos, forming the core of the list. FARO is also able to offer many older vintages. From 2012, Honda has presented wines from all the major regions of Italy, with a good offering from Alto Adige and a strong section of skin contact wines from Friuli. Honda notes that nowadays customers are not just looking for big brand names but are searching out interesting producers. 

Ten years in the planning, Vena in Kyoto opened in 2016. It is the brainchild of chef Daiki Hayakawa and sommelier Yoji Ikemoto. Hayakawa’s cuisine is Italian while incorporating Japanese ingredients. Vena is immaculately furnished with period Danish furniture chosen by Ikemoto, who has also curated a fine list of 300 wines. He has assembled many mature vintages of greats from Piedmont, Chianti Classico and Montalcino. 

Other cultures

Spanish restaurants are outnumbered by their Italian and French counterparts. Nevertheless the best compete in terms of quality. Cà Sento in Kobe has three Michelin stars and opened in 2008. Owner and chef Shinya Fukumoto previously worked in San Sebastian and Valencia. The cuisine has evolved into Fukumoto’s own distinct style. He extracts the essence of each ingredient, serving multiple small dishes in each course. Sommelier Tatsuya Ohyama has worked at Cà Sento since 2016. In his early 30s, he is another of the new generation of sommeliers and has put together the impressive list from scratch. With prior experience at Italian and French restaurants, he has created an international list of 300 references that still pays homage to Spain. Among the Spanish reds he cites Raúl Pérez’s Ultreia de Valtuille and the Garnachas of Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi for their elegance. As in many other restaurants, he notes strong demand for the wine pairing menu chosen to match the fixed course menu. 

Ardoak is a casual Spanish counter-style restaurant in Tokyo. This format is common and allows easy interaction between the chef and diners. Talented chef Ryo Sakai offers a traditional menu, with regional dishes, that changes every three months. There is also a more contemporary degustation menu with Spanish and Japanese elements. Ardoak means “wines” in Basque and Sakai has a deep understanding of Spanish wine, holding 300 bottles of both mature classics and younger new wave Spanish producers. Ardoak attracts wine lovers, although Sakai acknowledges that understanding of Spain is still limited. The ‘omakase’ culture in Japan, however, means many diners are happy to entrust the selection of both food and wines to him. 

Japan is one of the US’s largest export markets. CHOP steak house at Tokyo American Club offers a strong selection of American wines. The restaurant has 140 covers and seats an average of 2,200 guests a month, with a list that includes 400 references, with the US at its core, along with a compelling international showing. Wine director Sera Goto notes that a unique feature is that it reflects the interests of members. At the same time, Goto and the wine team stay abreast of trends in the US and feature lesser-known producers: Canada’s Quail Gate, South Africa’s Testalonga, and Château Belá in Slovakia show the range available to the 4,000 members. Understandably, Californian reds are the mainstay and the likes of Jordan, Caymus and Matthiasson prove most popular. 

Opened less than two years ago, Ăn Di is a modern Vietnamese restaurant with a cosmopolitan wine list. Owner Motohiro Okoshi is a reputed sommelier who worked at the classic French restaurant L’Ecrin for 12 years. He studied viticulture and winemaking in France. Ăn Di’s list is eclectic with 170 wines from 17 countries. Okoshi is thoughtful and articulate and prefers not to discriminate between wines of different countries. Clean natural wines and sakes are included. Having the option of traditional and natural wines as well as sake gives him a broader range of flavours in matching the light, fresh, savoury dishes. 

Local cuisine

An important trend in recent years is that of Japanese restaurants offering wine. Nogizaka Shin serves traditional kaiseki cuisine (multi-course fine dining) with an extensive wine list. It is run by co-owners chef Shinji Ishida and sommelier Yasuhide Tobita. This intimate restaurant, with a six-seat counter and three private rooms, opened in 2016 and achieved its first Michelin star within six months. The current list at Nogizaka Shin includes 250 wines and sakes, along with Champagnes and Burgundies. Tobita is expanding the list to include more international examples from Greece, Georgia and the New World. 

Wine is served in an increasing number of sushi restaurants. Sushi Nishimura in Roppongi has a tight, eclectic list formed by sommelier Ayako Koga. Sushi comprises many small dishes, each with a different texture, taste and price, which makes it a challenge for pairing. Koga suggests Fino sherry by Fernando de Castilla to match the kohada (gizzard shad) which is lightly marinated with vinegar. For lighter white fish, an Assyrtiko or a Brut Champagne is suggested. 

Ginza Sushiko Honten, founded in 1895, was one of the pioneers of introducing wine to sushi restaurants. Fourth generation chef Mamoru Sugiyama has served wines for more than 30 years. He stocks a high percentage of red Burgundy but also includes older vintages of Sangiovese and Nebbiolo for serving by the glass. Sugiyama believes that elegant reds pair well with certain fish such as chu toro (fatty tuna). He also feels that while many Japanese restaurants offer wine, there is a great deal of untapped potential in this sector. To expand the market he counsels merchants to offer an inclusive package with advice on storage, service and glassware for staff. 

There is a wealth of sophisticated wine lists at leading restaurants in Japan. While many are traditional, there is a move to include more international wines and innovative styles. Diners are happy to be guided by the accomplished sommeliers who created these lists. They in turn act as vital gatekeepers to many of the world’s finest and most interesting wines.   

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