New life in old vines

When international wines were in vogue, Navarra uprooted its old vines. But now winemakers are going back to the old ways, as Patricia Langton discovers.

Evolution of varieties in Navarra – 1984 - 2017
Evolution of varieties in Navarra – 1984 - 2017

The northern region of Navarra, situated to the east of Rioja and sharing a border along the Ebro River with its more illustrious neighbour, has a lot going for it. A range of climates and altitudes, including the cooler, wetter Baja Montaña in the north-east and the warmer, arid Ribera Baja to the south, make it possible to grow a diverse range of grape varieties for myriad wine styles — white, rosé and mostly red. Indeed, the approach to winemaking in DO Navarra is one of the most liberal and modern in Spain, with a variety of wines to match its vibrant gastronomy and colourful history. So why is this region struggling to export, especially in its traditional European markets?  

Until the late 1980s, Garnacha accounted for around 90 percent of vineyard plantings in the region. For many years the variety was the source of the region’s characteristically dry, full-bodied rosé wines — Navarra was largely “rosé country”, especially for the home market. The following period witnessed a shift to alternative grapes — Spanish and international — to enable producers to focus on new higher premium red wines and, to a lesser extent, premium whites, with Chardonnay being the main variety of choice. As a result, significant areas of Garnacha were uprooted, often with the incentive of EU subsidies.

After extensive research and development at EVENA, the region’s research station for viticulture and enology, French varieties — primarily Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot — were selected for a new era of modern winemaking, along with Tempranillo, now the most widely planted variety that was rapidly finding favour with consumers around the world. Today many producers offer a red blend based on Tempranillo with lesser amounts of Cabernet, Merlot or even Syrah as well as varietal wines, while some impressive oak-aged Chardonnays can also be found. Traditional rosé wines, made from the saignée (free-run) method, are still produced, as well as naturally sweet and fortified Moscatel wines.

Changing export fortunes

At the latest annual Wines from Spain tasting in London in March, many in the UK trade painted a gloomy picture for the region with comments such as: “Navarra has lost its way”; “It’s close to Rioja — it’s a difficult sell” and “Navarra has an identity crisis”. Pricing is the main issue for the UK importers: Navarra producers want to sell at similar prices to Rioja, with roughly similar red wines, yet they don’t have the strength of the Rioja brand. Indeed, as export figures show, Navarra was selling far more wine in the UK in 2013 and 2014, whereas Rioja goes from strength to strength. 

For now at least Navarra’s listings in the UK’s multiples have thinned out, but the specialist and independent outlets and the Spanish on-trade sector offer more hope, especially for a wine offering based on traditional grapes such as Garnacha. 

Pierre Mansour, head of buying for The Wine Society, believes that Navarra can offer great value for money for red wines under £10.00 ($14.00) and “wonderful early bottled, unoaked wines” that are “very reliable”, whereas the Rioja “brand” can be too expensive at this level. Working with producers such as Viña Zorzal, his listings prioritise Garnacha from older vineyards that offer a more intense flavour, with higher premium listings going up to £20.00. Mansour also favours the traditional style of rosé from Navarra: “It’s quite different — notably deeper and fruity yet dry. Navarra has a style of rosé it can claim as its own and that should be championed,” he says.

Spanish specialist importer Moreno Wines has seen Navarra’s fortunes change in the UK: “Navarra has always been undervalued due to the success of its neighbour, Rioja. In the 1980s and ’90s two large brands came from Navarra, which helped the growth of this region (in the UK). However, this was not to last and sales began to fall,” says managing director Abbi Moreno.

However, Moreno Wines is feeling positive about the year ahead and sees opportunities in two distinct areas of the market for its partner Principe de Viana. As Moreno explains: “With Rioja pricing climbing due to low yields from the 2017 harvest, we see huge potential for Navarra, especially for reserva and gran reserva wines [Tempranillo-based blends] for the multiples. Here customers need a good price-for-quality ratio and Navarra can offer this.” The challenge here is to keep the customers who are prepared to relist Navarra wines.

The style of wine listed by the smaller independents and off-trade increasingly nods to Navarra’s traditional grapes. Moreno Wines focuses on a different offering for this area where, as she says: “Garnacha red and rosé are a must — with ever competitive pricing — and Graciano is always a winner in the restaurant trade.”

Jordi Vidal, general manager at Navarra’s Consejo Regulador, admits that the region is currently finding it hard to compete in the UK. Producers are finding the market particularly “competitive and price sensitive”, with the prospect of Brexit adding to the challenges they face. “We have to promote the quality of our wines more in the UK,” he says.

However, perceptions of Navarra vary quite significantly in export markets. In the UK, the “reserva” description is very strong, while in Germany Navarra’s image is more dynamic. “There is less mention of oak ageing on (Navarra’s) labels in Germany and Brazil and we also have a good positioning in Canada,” he says. 

China has seen considerable growth for Navarra in the past decade, compensating for some of the losses elsewhere. The year 2016 was particularly positive for sales in China and last year the country was the leading export market for the region. Both here and in other developing markets Navarra can capitalise on the enthusiasm for Spanish Tempranillo and a more open-minded consumer.

Vidal says that generic marketing strategy aims to present Navarra as a modern, young winemaking region with an international dimension and a diverse offering encompassing “the Navarra blend” and varietal wines as well as its famous rosés and some impressive sweet wines. Interestingly, this year the generic campaign is also turning some attention to Garnacha for the first time in a move that reflects renewed interest in the variety and other traditional varieties which are being rediscovered in the region. A recent press tasting in London offered a showcase of both rosé and red Garnacha styles including some lees-aged and oak-aged rosés reflecting the experimentation that is taking place in the category.

Indeed, there is a noticeable shift back to Navarra’s traditional grapes as well as a more significant shift to vineyard origin and this can be clearly seen in the amount of research and development that is going on across the region. A number of small, new producers are putting red wines from old Garnacha on the map. Most, but not all, are located in the Baja Montaña sub-region, a prime area for low-yielding older vineyards located at higher altitudes. They provide grapes with the acidity and aromatic qualities that certain producers are now seeking for their wines. 

Unsi is one of the new breed of Garnacha specialists, having launched its first wine — Terrazas Tinto Garnacha — in 2016. Here the focus is solely on Garnacha — Tinta and Blanca from a mountainous area where vineyards are being rejuvenated. The producer also offers a lees-aged Garnacha Blanca and a sweet Garnacha Tinta. Winemaker Gonzalo Celayeta believes that reviving Garnacha’s heritage responds to the demand from the consumer for “more authentic” wines. He believes that the variety, in its new guise — that is, for premium red wines — has a promising future in the region and could become a leading grape once again, alongside Tempranillo.

For other more established producers in the Baja Montaña, Garnacha has always been at the heart of winemaking, as in the case of Bodegas Sada co-operative. This producer is undertaking a research project with three others — including one in Rioja — to produce wines from Garnacha Blanca and the lesser-known local white grape Garnacha Roya.

Viña Zorzal is located in the southern Ribera Baja, another key area for Garnacha. Export manager Xabi Sanz believes that Navarra has a much better chance of competing in export with wines based on traditional varieties — Zorzal currently produces wines from Garnacha Tinta, Garnacha Blanca and Graciano. “Navarra can’t compete at low price levels and with the Tempranillo, crianza, reserva ‘tags’ — it is impossible for sales to be sustainable,” he believes. He also sees the rosé wine sector as being highly competitive, as this style of wine doesn’t have a close association with terroir. “You have to talk about your vineyards, about terroir, about local grapes and about tradition,” he adds.

The UK, with its healthy number of specialists, continues to be an important market for Zorzal and a testing ground “to know how are wines are accepted in order to know how other markets will accept them”. However, sales are increasing particularly well in the USA thanks to positive press coverage and a broad base of specialist importers across the country. Zorzal’s next stage of development is to develop distribution for higher premium single-vineyard Garnacha wines such as Malayeto and special selections of the variety.

A new focus on old varieties

Whereas 30 years ago EVENA’s focus was almost exclusively on non-traditional grapes, today its work focuses on traditional varieties and seeking out the best “new material” from vineyards across the region. Not just Garnacha but Tempranillo and Graciano are under the microscope as well as white varieties. A number of independent research projects are also under way, which is further evidence that, slowly but surely, Navarra is taking a significant change in direction.

Bodegas Ochoa, one of Navarra’s best-known names in export, is perfecting the clonal selection for Garnacha and Moscatel wines through research with the University of Navarra. With reference to Garnacha, Adriana Ochoa explains that the Garnacha vines of its Traibuenas vineyard (Murillo el Cuende, Ribera Alta sub-zone), which were planted in the 1990s, are being grafting-over to achieve an alternative style of wine. The clones selected for the process have been reproduced from ancient Garnacha clones sourced from across the region with “unique characteristics”. Adriana explains: “The aim of the project is not to select the best clone but to maximise the potential of a range of clones to enable us to produce a more complex and authentic wine… always respecting the characteristics of the variety.”

Another well-known producer, Chivite, offers a varied portfolio based on traditional and French varieties, which includes an impressive oaked Chardonnay. Chivite is also backing Garnacha as a varietal wine with its latest wine: Las Fieles Garnacha. 

The trend towards traditional grapes looks set to stay in Navarra. Garnacha is clearly at the forefront, but other varieties are likely to play supporting roles.  

Appeared in

 

 

Latest Articles