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France, April 23rd 2008
Magrez gesture backfires

by Sophie Kevany

Billionaire winemaker, Bordeaux based Bernard Magrez, and his partner the actor Gérard Depardieu, shocked wine tasters at a recent event in Paris, by offering them Cartier watches worth €1,650. Around 50 journalists and wine critics attending a tasting of Magrez wines at Paris hotel, the Plaza Athénée, on March 26th, were presented with packages containing a Cartier Tank Must watch as they were departing
Many of them, having realised what was inside, are understood to have decided to either return the watches, or give the equivalent estimated value to a charity.

“When I understood what was inside I decided to explain to Monsieur Magrez that this gesture would not change our professional attitude to him, nor to our way of judging his wines,” said Thierry Desseauve, a respected French wine critic, in an email.

Desseauve, who also sent a letter to Magrez explaining the gift posed ethical questions about journalistic independence, donated €1,650 to French charity, Restaurants du Coeur. That way, he said, journalists could reaffirm their independent judgement.

"If they want to give it [the watch] back that is no problem. I have been dealing with journalists for 30 years and I am not so stupid as to think I can buy them," Magrez said, commenting on the incident.

Magrez, best known for his ownership of the 700 year old Bordeaux chateau, Pape Clement, owns over 30 wine estates, in seven countries and his wine business turns over €40m a year.

The incident follows a warning to journalists and critics attending a wine conference in Spain this weekend. Noted wine critic and conference president, Jancis Robinson, reminded colleagues that it was important to be honest about the wines they review, despite the fact that, as she said, “we know winemakers like to keep us sweet”.

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