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 ...markets, it is being praised in others.
Background: Traditionally, but wrongly, often seen as the lowest rung of the quality ladder that extends through spatlese, auslese, beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese, kabinett is in fact the style with the least natural ripeness of these categories. This should, however, be an advantage rather than a handicap. The lower levels of sweetness and alcohol can make this a far more delicate wine than anything else in the world. And the cooler climate of the Mosel adds an extra dimension to the kabinetts produced in this region. Once revered, this style of wine went out of fashion and, even within Germany, has been handicapped not only by the stampede to dry whites, but also the launch of new dryish designations such as Classic, Selection and Grosses Gewächs.
Origin: The Mosel, that now incorporates the tributaries of both the Saar and Ruwer as well, is Germany’s oldest and certainly most acclaimed cool-climate region. Located in the western part of the county, the vines grow on the steep slopes above the river from the French border to Koblenz. With 9,100 hectares, the Mosel is Germany’s fifth largest region. Although less widespread than it once was, Riesling, with 58 percent, is the most widely planted grape variety.
Soil: The meagre soils of the steep slopes along both sides of the three rivers are principally schist in different forms, which provide the Rieslings grown here with a delicate mineral component that is unique. Rieslings grown on the flatter land of the valley floors have less of this character.
Quality: Riesling Kabinetts from the Mosel are a class of their own. Unchaptalized, they are low in alcohol ( between 7 and 9 percent by volume) and high in acidity (8 to 10 parts promille) with a barely perceptible but analytical high natural sugar content (20 to 45 grams per litre).
Aroma: The most typical aroma of Riesling is said to be that of peach, green apples, quince and lime. These aromas, complimented by herbal essences, wild spices and driven by mineral components, should be delicate and impossible to mistake for something else.
Palate: A good Riesling Kabinett dances across your palate, subtly and delicately. The fresh acidity should be perfectly balanced by the residual sugar.
When and Why: Riesling Kabinett is not only an excellent aperitif, but also works well with Asian cuisine or on its own on a sunny afternoon on the back porch. After 10, 15 or 20 years of bottle- aging, it can can muster a firework of aromas and even be a perfect match for meat dishes, particularly those long simmered in their own juices.
Price Range: Retail prices start at below five Euros, but rise to 20 and more for the best on the market. Strength: Full of flavour at low levels of alcohol, the wines are unique – and the best a true bargain.
Weaknesses: Riesling as a varietal wine can be dry or sweet, young or old, low or relatively high in alcohol. This is difficult to communicate. In markets, such as the UK, finer German wines still suffer by association with cheap, poor quality Liebfraumilch, Niersteiner Domtal and Piesporter Michelsberg. In the US, German Riesling carries far fewer negative connotations – and sales are healthier – but Kabinett is still a little-known and poorly understood style.
Opportunities: These unique wines can appeal to both a consumer and an educated palate. If the tide against alcohol consumption continues to turn, low alcohol may one day be a selling point.
Threats: A lack of critical mass for the finer examples, and difficulties in obtaining good distribution, make them difficult for consumers to find.
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