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The Netherlands may be a small country geographically, but with 17m inhabitants and no domestic viticulture of any significance, it punches above its weight in wine imports. At 420m litres, it is the 6th largest wine import market in the world. As in many northern European countries, wine consumption in Holland was insignificant in the early sixties, but the Dutch now drink as much wine as the English; but contrary to that market, which seems to have reached its saturation point, the Dutch affection for wine is still growing, from 14.5 litres per head in 1990 to 21.6 litres in 2007.
France leading
Although France still dominates the off-trade with a 40% market share, historical links from both the Old to New World have favoured the acceptance of South African wines. The languages are similar, aiding pronunciation of names. South Africa thus went from nothing in 1995 to 19% market share in just ten years, taking both white wine market share from Germany (now at 10%) and red share from France, Spain and Italy (now at 9% and 8% respectively). That is all the more remarkable because Spain and the Netherlands were historical allies and have long been strong trading partners. For years, Spain was Holland’s second largest supplier, fuelled by sherry imports. Although European wine producing countries still dominate the Dutch off trade, all growth today comes from Argentina, Australia, Chile and South Africa. The traditional volume products from France, Spain, Italy and Germany will have to adapt if they don’t want to see their market continued to erode.
Rosé!
Whereas white wines have a 50% share of the British market, in Northern Europe, red wines usually predominate. In the Netherlands, 51% of the wines consumed are red, 35% white and rosé almost 14%, a remarkable high market share. Every fourth bottle of wine sold in The Netherlands between April and October has a pink colour! Even more dumbfounding, the average price of rosé in supermarkets is higher than that of red or white. Sherry, port and vermouth, on the other hand, have all seen their market share fall.
Take home market
85% of all wines are sold off-trade, because “the Dutch don’t take their wives out for dinner”, as a senior member of the international trade used to say. The English expression ‘go Dutch’ indeed has some roots here! That said, the average price paid for a bottle has increased over the last decade, from € 3.74 in 1996 to € 4.10 last year - and the average price for a bottle of wine purchased in a supermarket has now stabilized at € 2.68.
Multiple grocers
As in other European countries, the consolidation of the market means that multiple grocers have increased their market share to 65%. Albert Heijn, which also own the multiple specialist Gall and Gall, is the largest, with an estimated market share in wine of 35%. Superunie, a buying group, |
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is second with 23%, followed by the first discounter, Aldi at approximately 17%.
Best importer
Most Dutch supermarket chains have their own structures for wine imports, but rely as well on independents for parts of their portfolio. This probably explains why most respondents eyed specialist importers rather than those servicing supermarkets in their responses. Although both DGS (fair price for quality) and Oud Reuchlin & Boelen were mentioned, most votes went to true specialists like Imperial (for their impeccable range of Austrian wines), Colaris (high quality and value for money), Thiessen, Vojacek (small, but very good range) and Wijnimport Bart (heralded as the best supplier to the Dutch on-trade). Vinites and Vinoblesse tied for 4th; Vinites because of its complete, dynamic and exciting range, Vinoblesse because of its passion, European portfolio and commitment to organic and biodynamic wines. Kwast Wijnkopers, 3rd, was praised for its ‘distinguished portfolio both for off- and on-trade’. Residence (importer for De Gouden Ton group) was runner up! Comments ranged from ‘innovative’ and ‘well balanced range’ to ‘always with the consumer in mind’. The prize however, and almost unanimously, went to Wijnkoperij Okhuysen because of its unique combination of being an established company with a modern approach, beautiful shop, “magnificent range in France, Spain and Italy, and better and better elsewhere”.
Best supermarket
Despite their focus on value wines and the fact that the biggest brand in the Dutch market, Kaapse Pracht (18 million bottles annually) is sold by Aldi, no votes went to the two discounters in the Dutch market. Both Dirck III, Jumbo and C1000 gathered an equal share of the votes here, being praised because of their ‘good price to quality’ and the fact that their ranges were a ‘good reflection of the market place’. However, two names stood out in this class: on top was Albert Heijn, followed closely by Plus Supermarkets. Heijn was praised for its ‘by far broadest range’ including more expensive wines than the competition, and its consistency in quality. Nonetheless, as one respondent stated cynically, “who else, in the land of the blind….."
Best retailer
Many respondents chose for Hema for its ‘value for money portfolio, consistent quality and low threshold concept’. A rather new player to the scene, Grape District, also got some votes because of the innovative and trendy way they present wines to the consumer in 9 categories from bubbly, easy, mellow, rich, rosy, blush, smooth and deep to honey. Mitra and De Gouden Leeuw were tied for 4th, Hema came in 3rd and the two runners-up were high street specialist Henri Bloem and Gall & Gall. Henri Bloem was praised because of its complete range, its high quality wines and the fact they are yet price conscious. Gall was quoted many |
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times as the best large chain in the country, ‘offering a relative complete range but being on the expensive side’. The victory however, went to high street specialist De Gouden Ton, because of its complete range, with wines for each budget and because of its qualified and passionate personnel.
Best buyer
Nico McGough from Residence (original but self-willed), Bert de Boer from L’Exception Cordier and Frank Donker from LFE (both behind the scenes and unknown to the public), Peter van Houtert from Verbunt (‘equally good in buying as well as selling’ and ‘makes no compromises in quality’) as well as Jean-Marc van de Kant from Jean Arnaud were named. Alexandra Pouderouyen also received praise as the woman who managed to build the now so successful range at Plus Supermarkets, as did Ger Bergkotte for building a great and dynamic selection for KLM Royal Dutch Airlines. Marc Collard and Tjitske Brouwer were cited as a unique team who always manages to find new gems. Jaap Kwast came in 4th, getting lots of credit for his clever purchasing. Another woman, Jacqueline Snoeker from Albert Heijn came in 3rd. Runner-up was Joris Snelten at DGS, another man behind the scenes. However, the prize went to Hans Bootsma of Albert Heijn. According to the respondents, Bootsma is ‘best informed amongst his peers’, ‘most knowledgeable about wine’ and, as one respondent stated, “if you are allowed to do the purchasing already for so many years at Albert Heijn and Gall & Gall, you must be good.”
Best public relations
There was little praise for either Italy or Portugal in terms of generic promotion. Nor did Chile or Argentina receive any votes. Few were impressed for what Sopexa did for France. Having said that, many respondents agreed that France was the most complex country to judge, because it is represented by different organisations: “Michèle Lainé must make do with what she’s got from Sopexa”, was one of the comments. Jaap Sonnemans was praised for his successes to garner so much free publicity all the time. Both Paul Molleman of the Wine Institute of California and Marianne Nuberg of Viños d’España were credited (she tries to do for Spain what Alain Jacobs has already managed for Germany) and Ghislaine Melman of Melman Communications got votes (“early days, but she will get there”). CK’s Collette Claus was also credited (always on the news). The undisputed runners-up were Alain and Gisela Jacobs, praised for ‘putting Germany back on the map in Holland in a rather difficult period’. The prize however, went to Tot PR. While many said that South Africa’s success in the Dutch market had little to do with the marketing muscle or generic promotion, they called Anneke Tot “Miss PR”, the one who invented public relations for wine in the Netherlands.
Best sommelier
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Sommeliers in Holland play a less important role than in France, but with so many more fine restaurants in The Netherlands than in years past, and more two and three Michelin star restaurants than in neighbouring Belgium, the profession has gained in stature. Many names were cited, from Ted Bunnik (La Rive), Therèse Boer (De Librije in Zwolle), Petro Kools (Da Vinci in Maasbracht) to Cindy Borgers (De Lindenhof in Giethoorn) as ‘the female sommelier in Holland with knowledge”. Marcel Swaghoven at Valuas in Venlo was praised, as was Holland’s best sommelier for many years Edwin Raben. Simon Veldman at Restaurant Vermeer in Amsterdam came in 3rd, Noël Vanwittenbergh at Ciel Bleu in Amsterdam was runner-up, to be beaten only by a slim margin by Peter Bruins of De Bokkedoorns in Overveen.
Best restaurant wine list
Bokkedoorns in Overveen, Cordial in Oss, Echoput in Hoogsoeren and Savarijn in Nijmegen were mentioned, as were Valuas inVenlo, De Leest and Beluga in Maastricht. While Brasserie Van Baerle in Amsterdam placed 4th, De Lindenhof in Giethoorn came in 3rd. Many votes went to restaurant De Linnen in Oisterwijk, but Ciel Bleu in Amsterdam came out on top!
Best journalist
With only one consumer magazine for wine (Perswijn) available, and just a few for the trade (Proefschrift, Slijtersvakblad, Drankendetail), it was no surprise that Ronald de Groot was mentioned many times. Both Harold Hamersma and Nicolaas Klei also received votes. While René van Heusden, Gert Crum, Christian Callec and even the author were often praised, the winner was no surprise: the eminence grise of Dutch wine journalism: Hubrecht Duijker.
Most influential Wine Person
Many different suggestions were made, including journalists like Harold Hamersma (Trouw), Pieter Nijdam (Telegraaf), Nicolaas Klei (Elsevier) and Ronald de Groot (Perswijn) for their influence via publications and recommendations. Albert Heijn wine buyer Jacqueline Snoeker was mentioned, as was wine & food guru Peter Klosse. Holland’s only Master of Wine, Frank Smulders, also got votes. However, in the end three people stood out: Jan van Lissum because of his influence via the annual trade fair in Amsterdam (Wine Professional), three wine publications (Proefschrift, Proefkrant and Proefschrift Magazine) and the Gault-Millau restaurant guide; Hubrecht Duijker because of his columns in FD, his publications in various magazines, his website, his presence on television and the influence via his odd 70 plus books over the years; and Gert Zwitser, merchandiser at Albert Heijn. Zwitser is seen as the conscience of Albert Heijn and thus of wine retailing in The Netherlands. In the end, Hubrecht Duijker had one more vote than Jan van Lissum.
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