Still, most sommeliers today would say that they love ‘terroir’ and ‘natural’ wines, preferring single vineyard champagnes, small lot Burgundy and rare Riesling. On top of that, the wines should be organic, even biodynamic. That sounds sexy, but does it sell?

As much as I love these styles, it is important to retain a sober view. Let’s start with ‘natural’ wines. This is nonsense. Wine is not a natural product. I understand what is meant by a wine showing primary fruit, less oak influence and a high acidity, but when growers use less or even no sulphur, it might be a salvation for their own souls, but not for those buying. I recently visited a colleague in a highly touted restaurant who is a great defender of natural wines and resolutely against ‘modern winemaking’. I understand his love for some Burgundies of more restrained style, but not why a wine is judged good just because it is lean, acidic and pale.

As for terroir, I also think that a great wine should express the character of its place of birth and enjoy the subtle comparison between vintages, vineyards and growers, but what is terroir? I don’t know where to draw the line. A few hundred cases of La Romanée? Yes, that´s terroir. Or 20,000 cases of Mouton? Maybe. What about several million bottles of Dom Pérignon? I think that all of these express a ‘sense of place’. And even if some hate to admit it, isn’t Romanée Conti also a brand?

The organic and biodynamic movements have also done positive things for the wine world - and I agree that there are some world class wines being made by their proponents. Of course, it sounds romantic when sommeliers communicate that ‘organic wines have more flavour’ or ‘biodynamic wines show more depth’, but can we taste the difference? I am not sure if I can.

What about famous labels? Even though most of us might prefer a well-made Côtes de Blaye over a well-known Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé, I bet that most restaurant customers wouldn’t. There’s just something about the ‘label on the table’.  In this context, we mustn’t forget the customers who are paying our salaries. Although I have been fortunate, and work with a clientele that eagerly follows my recommendations, there’s still a large group that prefer the established brands. Throughout the years I’ve been observing how different guests tick. I find that nationality, social background, but especially sex and age matter. My own observations shows that younger people are always more open minded. Women are much more open minded than men and often dare to say what they like and don’t need to pretend that they know everything! Older men are more conservative and seldom venture outside the confines of white Burgundy, claret and Vintage Port.

Further, while guests from non-producing countries tend to be inquisitive, those from wine regions can be rather chauvinistic. When I encounter such guests, it is not my object to impose my beliefs on them, but to provide the customer what he wants. If I can rid myself of some underperforming Margaux from a weak vintage, instead of recommending an excellent Barbera or Blaufränkisch, why not? Both the customer and I will be happier in the end.

So despite my affection for some small growers, and the trend to miniscule single vineyard wines, I do think the on-trade needs more well-known brands than it will admit. I work in a small restaurant and can play with allocations, but what about the buyer for a large hotel or a restaurant group that turns over thousand of cases? At that point, allocated wines are at best a nice spice. Why, though, the polarisation? I like traditional wines, but I like modern ones as well. I like small, hand crafted wines and big brands, too. Most important, though, I like good wines that I can sell.